The Complete Travel Guide to Kandy, Sri Lanka

Written By
Roshan Nair
Last Updated
Oct 14, 2024
Read
5 min

We sent our in-house influencer, Zeeba Shaikh, to Sri Lanka on a travel research mission. Her firsthand experience brings you the most authentic tips and recommendations straight from the field.

Kandy is Sri Lanka’s high-altitude answer to cities like Kyoto or Cusco—a place where ancient traditions meet a lush, hilly backdrop. As Sri Lanka’s second largest city after Colombo, the streets buzz with life, from the jingle of tuk-tuks to the scent of fresh street food wafting through the air.

That said, Kandy is not Colombo 2.0. You won’t find skyscrapers or urban chaos here (thankfully). Instead, you get the charm of a place that’s proud of its heritage—yet modern enough to keep things convenient. In place of the usual shopping malls, you’ll find traditional markets filled with spices and handicrafts.

Kandy in a sentence? It’s the kind of place that stays with you—a little cooler, a little calmer, and a little more magical than the rest of Sri Lanka.

Packing for Kandy requires a bit of balance between preparing for warm tropical days and cooler, breezy evenings in the highlands. Here’s a quick guide on what to pack:

1. Light, Breathable Clothing

Kandy can be warm during the day, with temperatures hovering around 26-28°C (78-82°F). Stick to lightweight, breathable fabrics like cotton or linen.

2. Layers for Cooler Evenings

Kandy's evenings can get much cooler, especially during the rainy season or when you head further into the hills. A light sweater or jacket is essential for the cooler temperatures that can drop as low as 18°C (64°F) at night.

3. Comfortable Walking Shoes

Exploring Kandy involves a fair bit of walking. Sneakers or lightweight hiking shoes are ideal for temple visits, sightseeing, or short hikes.

4. Rain Gear

Kandy can experience unexpected showers, especially during the rainy season (October to December). A compact umbrella or light rain jacket can be a lifesaver during these downpours. Look for something that can be easily packed and pulled out when needed.

5. Modest Clothing for Temple Visits

Be sure to pack clothes that cover your shoulders and knees. A light scarf or shawl can also come in handy for extra coverage.

6. Sunscreen and a Hat

Even though you’re in the hill country, the sun can still be quite strong during the day. Sunscreen (preferably SPF 30 or higher) and a wide-brimmed hat will protect you from sunburn while wandering around Kandy’s open spaces or gardens.

7. Mosquito Repellent

This is especially a necessity in the evenings or after rain. Bring along mosquito repellent and consider packing mosquito coils or plug-in repellents if you're staying in guesthouses or budget accommodations.

8. Water Bottle and Snacks

Kandy’s sightseeing can take you from one spot to another, and it’s always a good idea to stay hydrated. Carry a reusable water bottle and perhaps some energy-boosting snacks like granola bars for long temple visits or hikes.

Pro Tip: If you’re planning to shop in Kandy (which is a great idea for souvenirs), leave some space in your luggage. Items like handcrafted jewelry, tea, and Batik textiles make for perfect mementos of your trip.

A Quick Guide to Getting Around in Kandy

Kandy’s compact size makes it relatively easy to get around, but there are several transport options depending on your preferences and budget:

1. Tuk-Tuks: The Quick and Easy Option

Tuk-tuks are cheap, readily available, and perfect for short trips around the city. Most rides within the city cost between 100-300 LKR. Always agree on a price before the ride or ask for the meter to be switched on.

2. Public Buses: The Budget Option

Kandy has an extensive public bus system that's incredibly affordable, with fares as low as 15-50 LKR. However, buses can get crowded, especially during peak hours, and the routes might be confusing for first-timers.

3. Taxis: For Comfort and Convenience

Apps like PickMe or Uber operate in Kandy, allowing you to hail taxis at competitive rates. A short trip will cost around 300-800 LKR depending on distance.

4. Walking: Best for Exploring the City Center

If you're staying close to the city center, many attractions, including the Temple of the Tooth and Kandy Lake, are easily walkable. Kandy’s central area is compact, and walking allows you to take in the local sights, sounds, and street vendors. Just watch out for the hilly terrain—it can be steep in parts!

Pro Tip: Tuk-tuks are the most convenient for tourists due to their availability and speed, but walking is often the best way to soak up Kandy’s charm, especially around the lake and temples.

1. Feeling Brave? Tackle Ambuluwawa Tower’s Sketchy Stairs for an Epic Shot

Situated about 25 kilometers from Kandy, near the small town of Gampola, this towering white structure is a challenge to conquer. For starters, it’s home to a multi-religious complex, housing a Buddhist stupa, a Hindu temple, a mosque, and a Christian church, all peacefully coexisting at one dizzying altitude.

But the real showstopper here is the tower itself. If you’re a thrill-seeker with a soft spot for panoramic views, Ambuluwawa is your spot.

Standing nearly 2,000 feet above Gampola, the tower offers 360-degree views of the Central Highlands, forests, and distant mountains. What makes it particularly unique (and slightly terrifying) is the staircase that spirals along the outer edge, getting narrower—and the handrails lower—as you climb.

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How to Get There

  • By Bus: Hop on a bus from Kandy to Gampola (about an hour, costing 150 LKR), then grab a tuk-tuk for the last 6 km to the tower.

  • By Train: A scenic train ride from Kandy to Gampola takes around 1.5 hours (150-250 LKR). From the Gampola station, you can catch a tuk-tuk for the remaining distance.

  • By Car/Tuk-Tuk: Want a smoother ride? Hire a private car or tuk-tuk from Kandy. The journey takes about 45 minutes to an hour, and the cost varies between 3,000-4,000 LKR—depending on how sharp your bargaining skills are.

What to Watch Out For

  • Narrow stairs and low handrails: The higher you go, the more “interesting” the climb becomes, so take your time, especially if you’re prone to vertigo.

  • Crowds: Afternoons can get busy, so aim for a morning visit to beat the crowds (and the heat) and snag the best spots for photos.

Pro Tip: Honestly, hydrate like it’s your job. Oh, and don’t look down unless you’re feeling brave!

2. Chill with the Past at Kandy’s Eerily Cool Garrison Cemetery

Hidden away just a stone's throw from the bustling heart of Kandy, the Garrison Cemetery dates back to the early 1800s. This quiet British cemetery houses the remains of soldiers, settlers, and their families, most of whom met rather unfortunate ends thanks to disease or accidents.

The local caretakers bring it to life with free tours full of fascinating (and occasionally tragic) tales of the people who rest here. For history buffs and curious wanderers, it’s an absolute must-see.

How to Get There

  • On Foot: It’s tucked away behind the famous Temple of the Tooth, just a short 10-minute walk from the center of Kandy.

  • By Tuk-Tuk: A quick and affordable option from anywhere in Kandy—should set you back around 150-200 LKR and get you there in under 10 minutes.

What to Watch Out For

  • The entrance can be easy to miss since it’s hidden behind the temple complex. If you get lost, just ask a local—they’ll point you in the right direction.

  • Don’t forget your insect repellent—this place is a mosquito hotspot, especially in the early morning or late afternoon.

Pro Tip: Be sure to take the free guided tour with the caretaker. The stories they tell will give you an insider's look at the lives (and often tragic deaths) of those buried here.

3. Get Your Boots Dirty at The Knuckles Mountain Range

Shaped like a clenched fist (hence the name), this UNESCO World Heritage site is home to more than 30 peaks, with elevations ranging from 900 to 1,900 meters.

And if you thought this was just another scenic trek, think again—what really sets Knuckles apart is its staggering biodiversity. From endemic bird species to exotic plants, it’s basically a living, breathing National Geographic episode.

With temperatures hovering between 15°C and 25°C (59°F - 77°F), you’ll get a break from the sweltering heat of the lowlands too. Plus, those panoramic views are the perfect backdrop for your next profile pic.

How to Get There

  • By Private Car/Tuk-Tuk: A taxi from Kandy will take around 1.5 to 2 hours and costs about 4,000-5,000 LKR for a round trip. Plenty of time to enjoy the scenery (or brace yourself for the hairpin turns).

  • By Bus: Catch a bus from Kandy to Matale (1 hour, 150 LKR), and then grab a tuk-tuk to whisk you into the Knuckles region.

  • By Tour: If you prefer to leave the logistics to someone else, join an organized trek with transport included. It’ll set you back around 6,000-8,000 LKR.

What to Watch Out For

  • Trails here can be as elusive as your phone’s Wi-Fi signal, so consider hiring a guide—especially for longer, more complex routes.

Pro Tip: Pre-book a guided trek to make sure you hit the hidden trails and soak in the best spots. Plus, your guide might drop some local knowledge on the amazing wildlife and plants you’re trekking past—think of it as a two-for-one deal!

4. Trek Through The Historic Kadugannawa Railway Tunnel

Just a short hop from Kandy, the Kadugannawa Railway Tunnel offers visitors a fascinating glimpse into Sri Lanka’s colonial engineering history. This tunnel, built by the British in the early 19th century, was part of the original Colombo-Kandy railway line and stands as a testament to the ingenuity of the time. The surrounding area is equally stunning, with lush greenery and sweeping valley views that make it a scenic spot for railway enthusiasts and history buffs alike.

While the tracks around Kadugannawa are still in use and maintained, the area surrounding the tunnel offers plenty of opportunities to explore the landscape and marvel at its beauty. Temperatures here hover around a pleasant 20°C to 25°C (68°F to 77°F), making it an enjoyable outing no matter the season.

How to Get There

  • By Train: Take a scenic train from Kandy to Kadugannawa, about an hour's ride with tickets costing 150-300 LKR. The tunnel and railway museum are a short walk from the station.

What to Watch Out For

  • The tracks are still in use, so always be cautious around the railway area. The nearby roads and pathways can be uneven, so wear sturdy shoes.

Pro Tip: Make time for a stop at the Kadugannawa Railway Museum, located next to the station. It offers an impressive display of old locomotives and memorabilia that will take you back to the golden era of train travel in Sri Lanka​.

5. Watch in Awe as Locals Walk Through Fire at Kataragama Devalaya

On Poya Days (full moon days), you’ll witness devotees at Kataragama Devalaya braving blazing coals like it’s just another day at the office. It’s a jaw-dropping experience that immerses you in the raw spiritual energy of Sri Lanka, a far cry from the peaceful, meditative vibe at other temples.

The cool 25°C to 30°C (77°F to 86°F) Kandy air might make you think you're in for a calm evening, but the heat from the burning coals and the electrifying atmosphere will make you forget all about the cool breeze. The entire event will put you in a trance as you watch devotees cross the fiery path with unwavering focus.

How to Get There

  • On Foot: The Devalaya is in central Kandy, just a 10-15 minute stroll from Kandy Lake.

  • By Tuk-Tuk: Let’s be real—you’re probably taking a tuk-tuk. It’s 5-10 minutes from most Kandy hotels, and it’ll set you back just 100-150 LKR.

What to Watch Out For

  • These fire-walking rituals are a rare event that only happen on Poya Days, so make sure you time your visit right.

  • The area gets a bit smoky during the rituals, so if you’re sensitive to smoke or have respiratory issues, take precautions.

Pro Tip: Stick around after the fire-walking. The chaos dies down, and what’s left is a peaceful moment where locals offer flowers and prayers—a quiet contrast to the earlier frenzy.

6. Drop by KCC for Some Retail Therapy & Scenic Vibes

Tucked right in the heart of Sri Lanka’s cultural capital, Kandy City Center (KCC) is a sleek commercial complex that brings in a bit of contemporary flair amidst all the history. Whether you’re looking to indulge in a little retail therapy, grab a bite, or catch a movie, KCC has got you covered.

It’s just a hop, skip, and a jump away from Kandy Lake and the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic—so after a day of cultural sightseeing, you can easily pop in here for some AC, a latte, and maybe even a few cheeky shopping bags from both local and international brands.

How to Get There

  • By Tuk-Tuk: A 5-10 minute tuk-tuk ride from anywhere in central Kandy will get you there for around 150-300 LKR.

  • By Walking: If you’re staying near Kandy Lake or the Temple of the Sacred Tooth, you can easily walk to KCC in under 10 minutes.

What to Watch Out For

  • Parking might be a bit of a sport, especially on weekends and holidays. Best to grab a tuk-tuk or enjoy a stroll if you’re nearby.

Pro Tip: For a true Sri Lankan snacking experience, swing by the top floor food court. Try a quick bite of kottu roti or hoppers—it’s street food but in a cozy, air-conditioned setting.

7. Rever Kandy’s Most Iconic Temple—The Temple of The Sacred Tooth Relic

At its centre, Kandy hosts one of the most sacred Buddhist temples in the world—The Temple of The Sacred Tooth Relic (Sri Dalada Maligawa). It holds the revered relic of The Buddha’s tooth, making it a spiritual hotspot for pilgrims from across the globe.

Hire a guide and walk through the temple complex to learn stories of ancient times and royal ceremonies. It’s basically a deep dive into the soul of Sri Lanka’s Buddhist heritage.

That said, Kandy’s not a one-temple town! You’ve got the Gadaladeniya Temple and Lankatilaka Vihara nearby—both gems in their own right, with unique carvings and a different take on Sri Lanka’s rich artistic history.

How to Get There

  • By Walking: If you’re already around Kandy Lake, the temple is just a short, scenic walk away. You’ll be there in no time, taking in all the lakeside views as you go.

  • By Tuk-Tuk: Wherever you are in central Kandy, a quick 5-minute tuk-tuk ride will get you to the temple entrance, setting you back about 150-300 LKR.

What to Watch Out For

  • Dress Code: Keep it modest—cover those shoulders and knees. You’ll need to leave your shoes at the entrance.

  • Crowds: Weekends and festivals can turn the temple into a hotspot, so brace yourself for queues. 

Pro Tip: Time your visit to catch the puja ceremony, which happens three times a day. Watching the rituals around the sacred relic is nothing short of magical—it’s like stepping into a living tradition that’s been carried on for centuries.

8. Feel The Beat and Watch Kandy Come Alive at Kandy Esala Perahera Festival

If there’s one festival that puts Sri Lanka on the cultural map, it’s the Kandy Esala Perahera—an absolute showstopper that takes place in July and August

Also, watch out for the spectacular fireball spin display. You can't say you've seen the festival until you've seen this:

How to Get There

  • By Walking: If you’re staying near the city center, you’re in luck—you can easily stroll to the action.

  • By Tuk-Tuk: Tuk-tuks are the go-to, though they might struggle through the packed streets. Expect to pay around 200-400 LKR depending on where you're staying.

What to Watch Out For

  • The crowds here are no joke, and you’ll want to claim your viewing spot early.

Pro Tip: For a truly unforgettable experience, plan your trip around the Randoli Perahera, the final night of the festival when the celebrations are at their most spectacular.

This is a spectacle that’s been dazzling audiences since the days of the Kandyan kings.

Kandyan Cultural Center.

How to Get There

  • By Walking: Most of the performance venues are centrally located, and you can stroll over if you're staying in Kandy's main hub.

  • By Tuk-Tuk: If you're further out, a quick 5-10 minute tuk-tuk ride (costing about 100-300 LKR) will drop you right at the doorstep of culture.

You’ll Likely Be Leaving Kandy With More Than Just Tea and Trinkets

Wrapping up your trip to Kandy (or any corner of Sri Lanka for that matter) is a bit like finishing a good book. You’ll walk away with a mix of fond memories and maybe even a couple of funny stories about dodging the occasional cow in the street or navigating the endless sea of tuk-tuks.

And as much as you might love a good itinerary, Kandy is one of those places where the best experiences happen when you let go a little. So, leave some space for spontaneity—wander down that alley, grab a snack from a street vendor, or sit by Kandy Lake and people-watch. 

The city will reveal its secrets when you least expect it.

I've also covered my experience with the country's flag carrier, SriLankan Airlines, an arrival guide to Colombo airport, a guide to exploring Colombo, and a beginner's guide to Sri Lanka.